Below the Midi, Cosmique hut dead ahead.I’ve been in Chamonix just a touch over a month now and I’m feeling more settled. I’ve met more of the locals and have been out skiing with some of them. It’s been super fun having access to local knowledge. Chamonix is completely intimidating until you figure some of this stuff out. That happens a lot faster with some inside info.
After having dinner with some of these folks, my friend and mountain guide from the states, Pat and I decided that ticking the Cosmique Couloir, one of the most classic and accessible Chamonix lines, was a good idea. With its westerly aspect, it would need some sun to soften and this wouldn’t happen until later in the afternoon. In order to kill time we decided to tick the Cosmique Arête, another Cham classic but a climbing objective, beforehand.
The trick of this link up would be getting through the Arête and to the Couloir with soft snow while still making the last tram down from the Midi mid station.
Cosmique Arête
Pat and I met for breakfast at the Elevation at 0930. We were in no hurry with our mid afternoon objective. We caught the tram up and were walking, yes walking, down from the tram to the base of the Arête. It was killing us to be on foot and not on skis. It took less than 30 minutes before we were booting up the track to the base of the climbing.
The views never suckThe Cosmique Arête is classic because it’s close to the tram and it’s super easy. There is some “up” climbing but most of the time it feels like the objective is horizontal. 
Me at the second rappel
Pat coming down first rappelThere’re a couple of short rappels and we got away with one 30-meter rope for all of them. The weather was fine and I did much of it in a t-shirt. Some of the sections are exposed but the snow ledges along which you move are well packed out. 
Kevin Mahoney at the "office"We eventually got into some slower traffic but it wasn’t too bad. We even ran into another good friend guiding 3 clients.
We did a short belay up the “crux” which is a short boulder problem involving a nice finger crack move or two to a ledge. The slab next to the crack is drilled out for crampon front points so it’s pretty easy. 
Pat sending
Not minding the wait
The final bit before the ladderI could live without the belay next time. A little more up climbing through a shallow chimney system brought us to the top of the arête and the ladder to the Midi station platform. Very civilized ending. We finished with a coffee at the restaurant and stage two of the day.
Cosmique Couloir
With skis on we blasted back across toward the Cosmique Hut. Some sidestepping got us to the ridge and we looked around a bit for the entrance. We picked the right side, which had more signs of traffic and eased in. The top was frozen still so my first couple of turns was tentative. We did a short angled rappel into the business. Looking up I realized the direct entrance would have been more elegant but we probably still would have rappelled the firm snow.
With skis on I eased out into the couloir to check the snow. It approaches 50 degrees right here but the snow was softening nicely. The first turn confirmed our timing was good. Pat pulled the rope and did the same, sidestepping through a choke like I did. From there it was careful but fun turns…forever.
The length of the couloir surprised Pat and me, suspecting the run approached 2,000 feet or more. Snow conditions remained generally perfect throughout.
Pat below the North Face of the MidiAt the bottom we turned right and headed down the margin of the Plan Glacier to the Glacier Rond. A long ascending traverse brought us back around below the Midi and to the mid station at 1615. No problem catching our ride back to town. Nice day, for sure.