Mid-summer Breakfast Skillet
I thought I was done. Really. The final descent of the Grand Teton seemed like a nice cap to the season. I've lamented not getting to ski a few lines that I had in mind, however. The Grand Teton Speed Project became a late season focus and, for better or worse, other projects were put on the back burner. But then I got the call. Nate Brown, ski partner of mine and, as it turns out, Mastercraft ski boat owner, decided that the Skillet Glacier on Mt. Moran needed our ski signatures. The novelty of a boat-assisted, mid-summer descent of a Teton classic, one that I've been itching to do for years, was too much to resist.
Jason Dorais was recruited to join us and he, in turn, convinced a buddy of his, Lars, to make the trip from Denver for a quick weekend jaunt. Lars, he claimed, was a bad ass who was coming off the couch for this. Too much work and family stuff getting in the way of regular outings and adequate training. He was psyched to be on board, nonetheless. Fit or not, this was no speed mission so no one really cared. We just wanted to get out and ski a great line in July.
Burning fuel for fun. That's what Nate likes to say. Not exactly our style but sometimes the narcotic of naughty fun is too much to resist. Hey, at least we weren't taking the heli. We would power across Jackson Lake, moor the boat and hike to a camp about 1,000 vertical feet above the shore. Get up early, climb and ski the Skillet and hike out in time for some boat related recreation on the way back. Sounded like a perfect summer time distraction.
And it was. It was a glorious evening for a cruise. Typical Jackson summer weather. No thunder storms threatening. After scouting the far shoreline for landing sites we were able to off load the goods without a problem. Nate swam around getting the boat safely secured a few meters off shore and we loaded up for the hike in. It was heinous. Swarms of mosquitoes and thick bush bashing occupied an hour of our time. I was glad for my head net. We were soaked in DEET by the time we reached open ground.
Camp sites were few and far between in the rocky moraine below the lower slopes of the glacier. It must definitely be better when snow covered. The boys found room for two tents on a flat boulder and I finally found some dirt amongst the brush 75 meters away. We cooked a quick dinner and retreated behind the bug netting of our tents for a few hours sleep. With the summer snow pack, a crack-of-ass start was not necessary. Alarms were set for 4:30 am and we were off in dawn's light before 6 am.
Ten minutes of boulder bashing had us on a ribbon of snow and making great time towards the main glacier. The air was still and warm and the booting perfect. Jason and Lars skinned while Nate and I hiked in crampons up. I decided skinning was easier watching Jason's long, relaxed strides as we ascended together. Either way, we made short work of the terrain and topped out in 2:39.
We were pretty excited because the snow was perfect and the runnel easily avoided. We didn't loiter on the summit for long even though there was nearly no wind. What a morning. We hiked back down to the top of the Skillet's "handle" and dropped in. It wasn't as steep as I thought it would be but I guess the melt off eased the pitch a bit. We took turns swapping leads, taking pictures and generally enjoying our good fortune. It's good to live in Jackson.
The mood dampened as we hike back to camp, horse flies torturing us the whole way. My thoughts of another brew faded as the pests became relentless. We packed up in the rising heat and plunged into the jungle below. It was worse than the way in. Not sure why. More DEET and head nets. I fell three times within 100 meters of the boat. God, I hate bush whacking.Back on the boat, the frustration of the walk out quickly faded and a short swim washed away the sweat. We took turns learning to surf the wake behind Nate's boat.
I managed to get royally sun burned, too. The only down-side to the day was jacking my thumb up while surfing. I learned it's important to let go of the tow rope when you fall. Why I held on I'll never know but my thumb is fat and purple today. Stupid.
I can safely say I'll never go back to the Skillet this late. The skiing's great but the bug-infested jungle trek is worth missing. If there is a climber's trail I don't know about I'd love to hear about it but, otherwise, get it early in the corn cycle and skin in to a Teton classic.
Reader Comments (1)
I skied the Skillet last year. We went in March and slogged across the lake. We skinned up from a point right as Bearpaw Bay starts and found some of the worst schwacking I've done. I can only imagine the Hell of no snow at all! We camped at the same spot, but with snow it was delightful.
2010 Skillet Trip
I know that the Skillet has been skied from the summit to the lake, but after our trip in, I was skeptical! BUT... on the way out I skied more to my right than I thought prudent. I figured it couldn't be any worse than what we had skinned up. We skied down the ridge right to Bearpaw Bay's campground. I wouldn't have gone in this way since it wasn't direct. But the ridge was void of brush all the way to the upper moraine!