Chamonix Day 1 – Vallee Blanche
Monday, March 10, 2014 at 04:29AM 
Rene and I met for coffee at his small apartment above the Gare des Glacier, the place where I will live for most of the next 2 months. The space is unique is that it was build in the 1920’s as the first tram station for the Aiguille du Midi cable car. It was ready for the 1924 Olympics held in the valley. Since then it was decommissioned and the tram station relocated down the street about a mile. It fell into complete disrepair and was falling apart when Rene took on the task of renovating it. The tenancy is a bit complicated but part of it is rented out to chuckleheads like me.
The l'Aiguille du Midi tram under mellow crowd conditionsAfter coffee and dropping off his daughter at her horse-riding lesson down valley in Les Houche (say “lay zoosh”) we headed for the Midi tram at the crack of ass start of 1:00 pm. This avoided to usual mid morning mob scene there. It was strangely warm, upper 40’s I’d guess, but we were headed 9,000 feet higher in the course of 16 minutes. Whoa.
The tram consists of two trams actually. One stops at a mid station adjacent to a large flat area, the l'Aiguille du Plan, below the Midi, Mt. Maudit and Mt. Blanc. 
Aiguille Plan looking up to the MidiThere’s plenty of ski access from here and I imagine one could have a great time doing short tours out of this convenient spot. But we walked through the station and boarded a second tram to the top.
Holy shit is that an awesome ride. It seems to go nearly straight up with giant rock walls all around. And just like that, you’re at 12,000 feet. There’s a maze of rock tunnels, a little museum, restaurant and several viewing platforms build into the mountain, one of which is accessed via an elevator. The view from any of these is staggering, indescribable, really. The mountains and summits I’ve been reading and dreaming about for most of my life were laid out in front of me. And after a short walk down an ice tunnel carved from the mountain, we donned crampons for the walk down the steep ridge to a place to put on skis.
"beyond here lie monsters"...Rene getting his spikes on for the ridge.Now, this ridge is an interesting experience. Many people traverse it without spikes. I sense you’re considered less manly if you put on crampons but I need to feel this out more to know for sure. But in full alpine ski boots it can be pretty slippery. There’s a thick rope suspended on both sides for safety and many skiers can be seen nearly prostrate, clinging to it like life itself. Make no mistake, it’s exposed on both sides. 
The descent from the Midi after noon is uncrowdedIt’s also kinda steep in places. And to make it even more interesting, apparently it’s hosed down with water each night to keep it in shape. So, I’m not sure why anyone wouldn’t wear spikes. I guess I’m just a wuss but I thoroughly enjoyed walking past dozens of people clinging on for dear life as they slipped and skidded their way down.
Mid morning? Not so much...
Skis on...looking back to the Midi
Rene’s an old mountaineer like me and was in ‘poons, too, so we were down and in our skis in no time. The weather was perfect; hardly any wind and sun everywhere. There was no doubt what direction to go as thousands of tracks led the obvious direction to the Vallee Blanche. The skiing is not that interesting, although could be fun with fresh snow and tacks to make. But the last storm was pummeled into submission days ago so we just made our way down, stopping often, taking it all in.
The iconic Gervasutti Couloir - Mt. Blanc du Tacul
Tour Ronde in lean condition this yearAvoiding crevasses was easy and the decent involved a series of wide open steps, some 500 or more vertical feet, followed by long straight sections of flat track cruising. 
Super Couloir - Mt. Blanc du Tacul
The well-trodden Vallee BlancheSeveral options exist for turning up adjacent valleys for additional adventure but we were on a pure g-ride. At one point there’s a metal walkway on the side of the valley that takes skiers to a hotel that is accessed by a train from town. For those not wanting to ski all the way down this is a bail point. We continued down to where the glacier terminates in a jumble of boulders and ice blocks. Here, skis are removed and there’s a short boot pack and traverse to gain a ridge leading to the rest of the track down.
There’s a small chalet at the transition point where dozens of skiers were enjoying beers and coffees before skiing down the winding cat track to the final piste to the bottom. With the warm weather, the track is melting out fast and the snow is getting pushed up into huge luge-like berms in the frequent corners. I guess we’ll have to walk sections if snow conditions don’t improve or stop higher and take the train. With 3,000 skiers a day making their way down the Vallee Blanche, it could make for some interesting ques.
I’d guess it was nearly 60 degrees at the bottom. We easily navigated the hoards of beginners on the final piste of slush. But before we hit that we had to tip toe across the cog rail tracks of the train that goes to and from the Montenvers Hotel up higher on the mountain. Only in the Alps…
Chamonix, Vallee Blanche, l'Aiguille du Mide in Chamonix 2014
Reader Comments (4)
No afternoon coffee break? Do a snow dance for me will ya? See you in a week or so.
Yeah, Dane. Good conditions for climbing up high but the skiing is starting to be pretty grim any where out of the shadows. Touring in Italy right now. More on that later. Maybe you'll bring the snow with you.
Judging by the gear and apparel it seems like France may turn you into more of a bro than AK...
Um, that would be no, there, Lover. The town is full of bros on long ass fat skis rocking the latest baggie Skittle clothes but those dudes ain't going up hill much and, when they do, it's SSSLLLoWWW.
The guys I spent the last two outings with are all rocking super light traditional camber skis less than 90mm underfoot, Plum or Dynafit bindings and small packs. It's all about the up for them. No worries on the bro infection, my friend.