Grand Paradiso, Italia
Wednesday, April 23, 2014 at 03:04PM 
An early summer in Chamonix continues to be eminent. Warm temps and the lack of precipitation make skiing objectives less attractive. Some climbing may be in order for me before my departure on May 2. That said, I received an invite from my guide friend, Jean, for another adventure over in Italia. He has two clients in town with designs on Mt. Blanc and they need some acclimatization and touring miles before that happens.
The Grand Paradiso above Courmayeur is a popular 4,000-meter summit with two huts along two different approaches. It’s a straightforward climb with minimal crevasse danger and spectacular vistas from the summit. With nothing more attractive on deck, I consented to the 5am pick up and journey to the trailhead.
My three compatriots jabbered away on French and I dozed on the ride over. Endless switchbacks above Courmayeur finally had us at snowline in a big parking lot with a hotel and restaurant. Big peaks towered all around. There’s a Nordic center here, too.
A flat skin led to a sun exposed trail that had us walking on dirt for the better part of the first hour. The steep ascent eventually gave way to gentle slopes that preceded the main hut. A helicopter was busy ferrying supplies for the next week of guests.
After a short break, we started up again, following the tracks of about 50 others who started earlier from the hut. Guide’s pace was not going to work for me on this day so I told the boys I would head off alone and catch them on the descent. Better to let Jean do his job. The spring snow pack was frozen solid and I used my B&D Ski Gear crampons on the steeper slopes. I reeled in several big groups along the way.
The last steep pitch leading to the summit had significant water ice on it so I switched to crampons for the rest of the climb. Some parties left skis down low here but I took mine to just short of the summit where a short rock pitch led to the top. All the guided groups were roped together so it was easy to move past solo. A few photos from the top and down I went.
I skied to the ice and put on crampons for the short section. In the middle of this there was a guy clearly in an awkward way, anchored to the slope with an ice screw fumbling with his skis, still attached to his feet while he lay on his side. 
The best I could guess is that by the time he realized there was a good reason that no one was skinning this section, he was at panic stations trying to avoid the slide for life. I commented on his choice of resting spot in the middle of the trail as I stepped over him. I couldn’t resist taking a photo of the hilarity. Poor sap.
After giving encouragement to Jean and his charges, I continued down the rutted unforgiving snow, hoping for some spring goodness lower down. My relatively rapid ascent had me going down before corn o’clock so I just suffered through it. As the snow pack thinned out, the descent route became tricky and I ended up in a steep, protected drainage with a waterfall and steep walls. Some sketchy side slipping and then boulder hopping got me to the Nordic trail at the bottom leading to the car a couple of kilometers down valley.
I sunned on the deck of the restaurant meeting several people as I waited but lamented the fact that I had not gotten the car key from Guy on the way down. Once they arrived, beers were in order followed by the sleepy ride back to Chamonix. Another fun day in Italia.
Grand Paradiso, Italy, ski touring in Chamonix 2014
Reader Comments (5)
Hilarity? Why didn't you stop to help?
Good point, Kristian, but his friend was already on it, as you can see in the photo. Besides, there's a certain number of awkward moments for each of us that accumulate to become what we prize as "experience" in the mountains. I certainly didn't want to deprive this game soul of one of his. I'm sure placing the ice screw under duress was particularly rewarding and relieving.
You American BeatDog! How do you see the beauty of our grand mountains through your eyes of pestilence and sorrows?! You do not see that I was only struggling to free my derrière so that I could make a proper poopoo in my snow with such beauty all around! Perhaps you will find peace in your heart when you also make time for kaka in such places of grand beauty!
My sympathies, Francoise. I now celebrate your efforts. Bravo!
That may be one of the funniest post comments I've ever read. "… through your eyes of pestilence and sorrows." Priceless!!